Just when you don’t think it could get any better, then it does. Such were our last days in New Zealand’s South Island earlier this year. It was a fly fishing trip, but in reality, much much more. It became crystal clear, and then some, why it was my brother-in-law Rob Crawford’s tenth trip to this enchanting land down under. Leaving Gore—billed the Brown Trout Capital of the World—we took our time and moseyed through the bucolic countryside, traveling lightly-traveled roads to the little hamlet of Waikaia, 40 miles north. Ag country with plenty of sheep, cattle, market deer, and horses. Yet wild country, too, with nearly untouched buffers between where wild plants and trees grew with small streams, brooks and rivers dissecting their landscapes. I love where the wild and rural meet, sharing a landscape not overwhelmed by suburbs and cities that cause the death of wild, nurturing, precious things.

THE WOODCHOPPER INN COTTAGE

The slow drive into Waikaia felt like a time warp back to an earlier era with largely empty streets, immensely appealing landscape, and clear, nourishing air. Along the slow streets of late summer, we found our way to The Woodchopper Inn Cottage where we would leisurely bivouac for the next three days. I think the AIRBNB site best describes it: “Quiet & peaceful getaway—Take a step back in time with Woodchoppers Inn, an over 100 year-old colonial cottage owned by the Great Great Grandchildren of the original family that built it in 1890. Great retreat for Fisherman!”

After making ourselves comfortable in the Woodchopper, we made our way to the local watering hole and restaurant, the Waikaia Commercial Hotel. Wendy-Jane and her partner Biggles own and run the well-known pub establishment. Note: as of August this year, Anna and Paul Sykes are leasing the business and running the pub.  Established in 1881, the Hotel is the last pub standing out of the 23 which existed in the gold rush days during the late 1800s and early 1900s when the area’s population was much greater. It was built from timbers transported by wagon from Tapanui in addition to timbers from Waikaia’s (known then as Switzers) first church and school. An hospitable rural warmth exudes throughout the pub which is furnished with old wool presses as tables, and farm implements and photos adorning the walls. It is the favorite social spot of many in the Northern Southland.

Rob and I wasted no time ordering draught pulls of Speight’s beer, a favorite of the Kiwis. We drank it in the pub’s garden area and befriended several locals who were relaxing after hard work days on the farm. We had a wonderful lamb chop dinner, accompanied by a deep chocolate/mocha tasting 2020 NZ Pepperjack Shiraz. The pub filled up quickly with family, friends and visitors from elsewhere. Since Rob had been in Waikaia before, we didn’t ask for fishing tips or lies. That night we slept like spring lambs in a paddock.

WAIKAIA RIVER

LAST MORNING at the COTTAGE

I elected to stay at the cabin the following morning. Rob took his fly-fishing flies out, tying some double fly leader hookups for the river. I had a leisurely morning of writing, reading and packing for our afternoon journey to Queenstown. Looking at my journal entry, this is what I had to say, starting with the day before:

March 2, 2023
Waikaia, NZ
“Fresh coffee permeates the air, as Rob and I sit in the cozy living room of Woodchoppers Cottage. Both of us have cups of French-pressed Hummingbird Dark Roast. The sun just rose over the Waikai River where brown trout instinctively move to slurp insects from the slow moving stream. I make us a breakfast of granola, mango yogurt, fresh peaches and apricots with coconut milk poured over the top.”

3-3-2023
Woodchopper Cottage
“With the rising sun poking through the cottage window, I sit in the corner easy chair, sipping my morning joe, writing these words. My cup is on top of the Toshiba gas heater, less than an arm’s length away. I’m in my light- weight green summer robe. Back home, I would be in my winter robe. I turn the heater to 22 C (72 F). Rob just left to fish for a couple of hours. Not a cloud in the sky this late NZ summer day. At noon we’ll head to Queenstown for our last two nights. Rob will then fly to Hawaii to be with family and I’ll fly to ski Whistler, Canada. Summer will become winter again for me. I miss already the thought of leaving this extraordinary country. I wish that I would have adventured here in my earlier years! Behind me on the wall is a photo of the Cottage’s mother when she was young standing behind the gate, framed by hedge. In the house are framed photos of her uncles in their military uniforms. Both lost their lives in WWI. Looking out the living room window west is a neighbor’s NZ flag with the Southern Cross. Last night, Rob and I marveled at the night sky with the Southern Cross in the Milky Way. This old Cottage is absolutely charming. Upon the old unused cookstove is a large tv. (I have not turned on the tele once during my entire NZ stay.) The Orion manufactured stove is reddish with white specs. Fittingly, I pointed out the constellation Orion to Rob last evening. The couch and three antique easy chairs are draped in colorful quilts, mindful of my Grandma Turner’s home. The light fixtures in the house are from another era, hanging from the ceiling with pull cords. Rob’s bedroom (which you enter into from the front door) has on one side old newspapers dating back to the 1960s, including one with England’s Princess Margaret.”

Just about the time I finish my writing, the door opens and in comes Rob with a happy fishing smile. “Let’s pack and on our way out, let’s do a little fishing before our journey to Queenstown. I’ve finally figured them out!”, says Rob. We do just that...and I was finally able to catch (and release, as we did that with all the fish) my first Wailaia brown!

QUEENSTOWN and SKI AREA

First of all, Queenstown is absolutely stunningly beautiful. With a backdrop of the Remarkables Mountain Range, it sits on the picturesque Lake Wakatipu. It is the gateway to NZ’s Southland. It is a vibrant tourist mecca in the summer months and I assume equally so in the winter with the nearby Remarkables Ski Area, Treble Cone Ski Area (the largest with the longest vertical in the Southland), Coronet Peak and others. Many of my US ski friends speak highly of it and go there during our summer months. The US Ski Team regularly trains there. A former ‘near nephew of mine’ went there as a member of the US Ski Team and spoke glowingly of it. I’ve placed that on my bucket list.

The approach of autumn arrived quickly when we arrived in Queenstown. After dropping off our rental car, we made our way to The Hilton on Lake Wakatipu. Once comfortable in our room, off we went to catch the ferry, a 10 kilometer ride to Queenstown. I saw the first yellows of autumn as we crossed. Downtown Queensland was an absolute surprise for me as it had an ocean port feeling to it, but with a placid ‘sea.’ It was hoppin’ with tourists from around the world, though mainly Aussies and Kiwis. All of the restaurants were brim full. Live entertainment was abundant. We were finally able to get into the Finz Seafood and Grill. Along with a bottle of Otago sav blanc, we ordered the Southland Blue Cod and two dozen Bluffies...the gourmet oysters from Bluff, the season’s first that very day. Triple yum! After dinner, we did a walkabout on the lovely promenade bordering the lake. We took some side streets and explored a few shops. An Irish pub caught our fancy and we went in for some live music and Guinness Stouts on tap. Rob caught the 9pm ferry back. I missed it so I took the last ferry of the evening, an hour later. If you miss the last ferry, a taxi ride is needed and it is quite expensive! Fourteen New Zealand dollars is the ferry cost. The evening ride is enchanting with the lights of the city and surrounding area. Queenstown would be a great romantic getaway for anyone.

The following day, we took the ferry back to Queenstown and spent part of the day exploring some tourist attractions, including art galleries, museums and an underwater theater with windows offering live views of the lake’s variety of fish. Later, Gore friend Peter picked us up at the hotel and we went to his lovely vacation home in the country overlooking the Remarkables. We had a great early dinner of local fare, followed by a twilight hike and memorable sunset which would be our last before departing the enchanting South Island the following day.

New Zealand captured my heart. I will be back one day, I promised myself, and if I get really lucky, with Rob and my son.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Larry Turner is a productive, respected regional, national and international photographer/writer. His work has appeared in countless magazines and books, including Browntrout and Avalanche Publishers' calendars and books, American Heritage, National Geographic Traveler, Travel and Leisure, Sunset and many others. He is the co-author of the book Mount Shasta Reflections, and his photographs have appeared on covers of many books and magazines.  He is an active skier, gardener, fly fisherman,  and adventurer. His greatest love is spending time with his son Steen, Chef de Cuisine of the Cafe Kandahar in Whitefish, Montana.