European Wonders - Venice, Slovenia, Croatia
Europes most magical city, Venice, sits perched in northern Italy at the top of the Adriatic Sea. It makes a perfect start for one of the best two-week itineraries in all Europe. If youve been looking for something that combines romanticism, history, varied cultures, alpine lakes, isolated Adriatic beaches, and adventurous exploration this itinerary fits the bill. Within a square area measuring less than 150 miles on a side lay the best sites that northern Italy, Slovenia, and northern Croatia can offer. Fly into Venice and spend three days roaming the back streets, getting to know the real canal city; take the train to Ljubjana from where youll drive north two hours to Bled and spend three days walking, biking, and paddling the Julian Alps most beautiful lakes; drive south and explore the karst cavern at Postojna before spending the night at the Adriatics vacation spot of kings and queens, Opatija, Croatia; continue south and ferry to the isle of Rab where youll spend four days enjoying its medieval village and isolated Adriatic beaches; return north for three days in energetic Ljubjana, Slovenias capital that feels like a mini-Salzburg without all the tourists; fly home from Ljubjana feeling rested and gleaming with all that youve seen and done -- the trip of a lifetime. Jump aboard!
The Real Venice
If this is your first trip to Venice, youll start with the most famous sites: the Grand Canal, Piazza San Marco and its Basilica and Ducal Palace, the Rialto Bridge, and the Accademia Gallery. It will help if you start early in the day to avoid the biggest torrent of tourists. On your second full day go exploring on foot and discover the quiet and interesting Venetian neighborhoods. If youre not a first-time visitor youll have two full days to explore independently.
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Pick up a copy of the English version of the "terre di Venezia" Venice map and guidebook at the tourist office on Piazza San Marco. Ask the office rep to sketch in the locations for all seven of the traghetti piers that provide gondola service across the Grand Canal. These traghetti cost only 40 Euro cents each time you make a Grand Canal crossing. Plot out your days explorations, starting with a trip up the canal to an appropriate stop for one of the neighborhoods. Be sure to plan your walking route to include as many squares ("campo") and small canals as you can. There are six neighborhoods, 60,000 residents, 150 canals, and 400 bridges in Venice, so you wont run out of surprises. Youll find a myriad of interesting cafes, local shops, small churches, palaces, and ever-changing architectural displays.
Besides the tourist-heavy neighborhood of San Marco, the most interesting neighborhoods are the following: eastern Santa Croce with Campo San Giacomo dellOrio; San Polo with Campo San Polo, Campo San Rocco, Campo San Toma and Campo Del Frari with its incredible masterpieces by Titian and Bellini in its Gothic-Franciscan style church; Dorsoduro with Squero di Trovaso, one of the few remaining gondola boat yards, Fondamenta Zattere, the quay promenade that runs along Venices southern boundary; and Castellos western section with Campo Maria Formosa and Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
Alpine Gems Lake Bled and Bohinj
Emerald-green Lake Bled has it all: views of the highest peaks of Slovenias Julian Alps, a picturesque islet with an ancient monastery church, a medieval castle clinging to a rocky cliff, and a wooded pathway leading around the four-mile circumference that is great for strolling, hiking, and mountain biking. The busy town of Bled on the eastern end of the lake is the biggest tourist destination in Slovenia, but you can find great lodging in a quiet lakeside environment at Mlino, halfway down the southern shore from Bled. Here you will also be able to rent a rowboat to make your own trip out to the monastery islet.
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After a day around Lake Bled, make a trip to Lake Bohinj, an hour drive west along the Sava River. Its the most beautiful alpine valley you can image. But the real treat is Lake Bohinj itself, in a box canyon with steep mountains on three sides. It will seem like you are the only person on the planet to know of this spot when you rent a canoe from the sports center found on the lake road one kilometer from the medieval church at the lake outlet. We loved Lake Bohinj so much that we canoed and mountain biked there for two of our three days.
Old European Serenity - Opatija On your journey south to Rab youve got a great opportunity to visit the karst cavern of Postjana Cave. Youll see about four kilometers of the cave from a train, and two additional kilometers on foot, viewing astounding displays of stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and rooms created over the eons by the Pivka River. When you emerge back into daylight youll have but a short drive on to Opatija, Croatia sitting on the Adriatic Sea. It was the fashionable resort of the Austrian-Hungarian empires royalty until WWI, and still retains its original charm with a miles-long promenade along the sea. The grand residences of the wealthy are now hotels offering a bit of bygone elegance for the traveler. St. Jacobs Church in the center of town is well worth a visit. |
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Croatias Adriatic Treasure - Rab
Its now time to relax in the sun for several days on the isle of Rab. An inexpensive car ferry will take you from the coastal highway to the island pleasures. Stay in one of the hotels on the periphery of the medieval village of Rab, situated on its own small peninsula.
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The village is for pedestrians only and includes four elegant bell towers rising from the ancient streets. Rab dates back to the 7th century, with most of the existing buildings dating from the 13th through 15th centuries. Around the village youll find forests of pine dotted with sandy beaches along the protected shores. Its a great spot to explore on foot or mountain bike, looking for that perfect cove. From Rab you can also charter a sailboat or powerboat for other island explorations. At the end of the day, youll have a good selection of village restaurants serving excellent Croatian cuisine.
Ljubjana Slovenian History and Class
Return now to Ljubjana. You can leave your rental car, for you wont need it in this small, pedestrian-oriented capital of Slovenia. All of the old city center sites are within a square kilometer area bordering the peaceful Ljubjanica River. Its convenient to stay in a hotel just on the outskirts of the center. Be sure to visit the old castle on the hill just above the river and to explore in depth along the river promenades and the oldest street, Mestni trg. Interesting sites include the 15th century town hall, the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, the open-air market place of Vodnikov trg, and the central square, Presernov trg. This square is a great place to have a coffee or snack and listen to some good musical groups. When you want to venture out of the old town, youll find nearby Tivoli Park and a centuries-old workers neighborhood, Krakovo, along the Gradaska Canal with its many restaurants and bars.
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Multiple Worlds in a Convenient Itinerary
As you fly home from Ljubjana youll find yourself wondering how you could have spent just two weeks enjoying such a variety of experiences. With multiple nights in Venice, Bled, Rab, and Ljubjana the pace was not too hectic the best of the northern Adriatic region in a relaxing itinerary. Youve got to do this again some day! Youll tell everybody as soon as you get home!
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Article by
Les Furnanz
Photos by Rita Furnanz