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June 22, 2026, the Going-to-the-Sun Road opened for the new season. Photographer friend Cindy Klein and I departed Columbia Falls, Montana at 7am, hoping to beat the crowds for the long awaited opening, always contingent on the clearing of snow and debris on the fabled road reaching into the heavens of Northwest Montana. Driving to the West Glacier entrance off Highway 2, we saw the long Glacier National Park entry backup line (upwards of two miles long) and we simultaneously made the decision to avoid it.
“Should we head to the east side?” asks Cindy. “Absolutely,” I reply. “Like you, I am not a wait-in-line person. Never have been, never will be.” We pull off to the shoulder and go around the traffic. Unfortunately there is no bypass lane, making things problematic for locals and drive-through traffic. We wondered out loud what the new Going-to-the-Sun Road season at the park will be like as this is the first year since 2021 that no reservations are required. Two days later I would travel with my local friends Dennis and Mary as we headed to West Glacier for a rafting trip put-in, and the line was even longer. They were bemoaning what the summer park season would be like as covid and social media has placed Going-to-the-Sun and Glacier National Park on imperative bucket lists, which has lead to overcrowding, diminishing the national park experience for many.
Crown Jewel Getting Tarnished
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Busy trails at Many Glacier |
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Going to the Sun East roadside |
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Glacier National Park and the Going-to-the-Sun Road are often referred to as the collective Crown Jewel of America’s National Park system. It is the northern-most extension of America’s Rocky Mountains...a land of high peaks, deep valleys, glaciation, waterfalls, abundant wildlife, including apex predators - the grizzly and black bear. Glacier has 800 bear, 300 which are grizzly. There are Rocky Mountain goats, bighorn sheep, mountain lion, wolves, bobcats, elk, deer, moose and a plethora of other mammals in the park. Bird life is also abundant.
The most glaciers in America exist here, but global warming—denied by the current administration—is taking a deep toll here with an average glacier reduction of 40% and with some individual glaciers upwards of 85%, documented by the US Geological Survey. The public can actively see the demise, especially those that have frequented Glacier over a number of years.
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Many Glacier parking lot |
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Many Glacier roadside bear siting |
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Traveling in the Park in the summer is not for the faint of heart. Extra vigilance must be applied with the burgeoning traffic. The west-to-east Going-to-the-Sun Road has three to four times the traffic compared to crossing east to west from St. Mary. I would recommend traveling very early in the day or later in the afternoon. Better yet, plan your trip after Labor Day or before the summer season begins in earnest.
Important considerations: vehicles and vehicle combinations longer than 21 feet (including bumpers) or wider than eight feet (including mirrors) are prohibited between Rising Sun and Avalanche Creek. Drivers of vehicles taller than 10 feet should be aware of rock overhangs. Until September 26, 2026, bicyclists are prohibited from Apgar Village to Logan Pass going eastward from noon until 6pm, and from Logan to Apgar going westward from 3pm to 6pm. Implemented this year also is a three-hour parking limit at Logan Pass.
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The Highline Trail at Logan Pass is closed at this writing because of snow, but should open soon. Cindy remarked that she had not seen as much snow as we saw in our outing in all of her years living in Whitefish. “The Highline Trail with all of its steepness is not on my bucket list,” she states. “I don’t want to meet a grizzly on it as there is no place to go and we all know who commands the right of way!” When the Highline Trail opens, the Park Service is offering a free shuttle dropping hikers off at the pass, picking them up at the Loop and giving them a ride back to where they began, either on the west or east side of Logan Pass. It is best to check at the Logan Pass Visitor’s Center for additional details, or contact: https://home.nps.gov/glac/index.htm.
Bear Mauling Fatality in Glacier This Year
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Grizzly bear with cubs in Glacier National Park |
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The first bear encounter fatality in 30 years was recorded in Glacier National Park with the discovery of 33-year-old hiker Anthony Polio’s body on the Mount Brown Trail on May 6, 2026. The trail is accessed near McDonald Lodge on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Mary and Dennis were on the trail the same day and Mary might have been one of the last people to see Polio alive. A few weeks later California hiker Daniel Crago was injured by a grizzly charge on the Grinnell Glacier Trail in Many Glacier on the Park’s east-side. Cindy and I photographed a grizzly sow with her two cubs on our day-outing to Many Glacier. I also photographed a grizzly just off the Going-to-the-Sun Road the same day as we traveled east to west.
There are many spectacular hikes off the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Pick up one of many hiker’s guides to Glacier National Park for info. Make note though - this is the home of these amazing noble creatures. But they are not like a dog to pet or feed. Travel with bear spray, travel in groups, make noise, learn the protocol when encountering a bear (I once encountered 17 grizzlies on a Denali National Park day hike), keep food in odorless containers, be smart...especially if traveling in dense vegetation and around blind corners. Moose are also known to have attitudes, especially if they have a calf. Once in Many Glaciers years ago, I was chased by a moose cow. Just as I slipped safely into my car, she slammed into the back of it.
Goat Lick Overlook
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Rocky Mountain Goats at Goat Lick |
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En route to the east-side of Glacier National Park, Cindy and I stopped at the Goat Lick Overlook, located on the southern most tip of the Park, two miles from Walton Ranger Station. The colorful exposed mineral cliffs above the Middle Fork of the Flathead River are frequented by Rocky Mountain Goats as they seek vital nourishment from the jade-colored minerals. A gentle rain started as we walked to the overlook. We were treated to the sight of several goats with new kids, adoringly white in their newborn unsoiled life coats. The nannies were teaching their kids cliff climbing 101. We watched and photographed one stumble and fall many times before reaching its mom. Bring a pair of binoculars to enjoy these fascinating animals.
Going-to-the-Sun east to west
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Swiftcurrent Falls near Many Glacier Hotel |
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After the Goat Lick, we traveled to East Glacier, Browning and Many Glacier. Traffic was sparse until we arrived in Many Glacier where it picked up, although it was totally manageable. At Many Glacier, we took a short hike to Fishercap Lake. The previous year, Cindy encountered a large bear en route and had to go back out to the parking lot. Fishercap Lake is known for moose but we drew a blank on our hike. The Many Glacier Hotel—constructed in 1914—is a must see - and stay, if you make early reservations. Note: if last minute, check to see for cancellations. This location offers stunning views of several iconic eight to ten thousand feet peaks along picturesque Swiftcurrent Lake. The five-story Swiss-style hotel is a departure point for boat tours, horseback rides, hiking and red bus tours in the famous Red Jammers.
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Fishercap Lake |
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Going to the Sun Stream |
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Leaving Many Glacier, we drove to St Mary, had an ice cream and milkshake, and then re-entered the Going-to-the-Sun Road which we traveled all the way to West Glacier. We made several waterfall stops, pulling over a couple of times on the steep west descent to take in the magnificence of the remarkable high alpine scenery. The Weeping Wall—where gushing mountain springs spray water over rocks onto the roadway—was gushing like I have never seen. Since I was driving Cindy’s car, I elected not to get a natural car wash.
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Going to the Sun Wine |
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Bear Grass |
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Opening day 2026 on Going-to-the-Sun was a treat. The year before, I did the opening day with my son Steen, going west to east. Going east to west with Cindy was equally a treat.
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Wildflowers Going to Sun |
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Going to the Sun Weeping Wall |
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Recommended Reading:
In the Presence of Grizzlies. The Ancient Bond Between Man and Bears by Doug and Andrea Peacock
Going-to-the-Sun Road: Glacier National Park’s Highway to the Sky by C.W. Guthrie
Going-to-the-Sun Road Driving and Biking Guide by Jake Bramante
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
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Larry Turner is a productive, respected regional, national and international photographer/writer. His work has appeared in countless magazines and books, including Browntrout and Avalanche Publishers' calendars and books, American Heritage, National Geographic Traveler, Travel and Leisure, Sunset, Range Magazine (29 covers), The Atlantic and many others. He is the co-author of the book Mount Shasta Reflections, and his photographs have appeared on covers of many books and magazines. He is an active skier, gardener, fly fisherman, and adventurer. His greatest love is spending time with his son Steen, Chef de Cuisine at Buchanan's Chop House (Whitefish). Click for Larry's Facebook page. |
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